In this issue I’ve a few traditional wines that just are beauties even if they aren’t natural at heart. This is one. It is compellingly gorgeous. If you can find the 2004, it’s salt caramel without the sugar, all honey and nut and flowers and edge. Easier to find is the 2006. Almond and spice. This is the reason we drink wine.

Fabio Bartolomei is an ex-patriot Scott who is Italian, who moved to Spain and is a nut who is a little mad genius of a hybrid. He’s happy at an outdoor gin bar in Madrid in the freezing rain, but he also can manage birthing this: peach juice masquerading as wine.