The Côte de Bar village of Riceys has the only champagne appellation for still rosé, and according to law, the rosé must be carbonic. How much carbonic isn’t specified so Olivier starts out without temp control (he has the advantage of a cold cellar). He then pumps over and drains the grapes off after only one week. The result is powder. Delicate structure. All lovers of Jura reds will go crazy for this one.

The De Moor’s 2012s were gorgeous, and the Chablis especially so. The oyster shells pop from the glass. This wine doesn’t come from their vines (try their Bel Air for that) but from a (still unknown to me) friend with vineyards near their own vines, in the town of Courgis. Organic but not certified.