This is a star in the making. Little Clémence came back home from wine school and is leading her adorable family into the land of biodynamic, low sulfur champagne and kicking ass as she goes. This bottling shows much more depth. I was drinking this in the Loire after a long day at the Dive and was immediately revived. It was the kind of champagne that keeps you reaching for the next glass. There’s plenty of life, a touch of rich apple and a fine bubble.

John Okruashvili is a native of Sighnaghi, a high-tech guy who started to make wine in 2009. His vineyards are in Nukriani, from a higher elevation than much of the region, about a ten-minute drive from his home. The wine is impeccably clean and satisfying. A deep amber color and elegant-tasting. Juicy, spicy with a touch of caramel enlivened by orange blossom and a good, uplifting acidity. For those who think making wine in qvevri always gives a qvevri-textured grittiness, drink up and have your preconceived notions fractured.