Here’s an out-of-the-box California idea. From volcanic, loamy soils blend the fiano of Campania (at home on volcanic) and arneis of Piemont (more at home on limestone). It’s no wonder that the wine embodies conflict/ tension. At first the FNA really did have a good relation to cider, you know that kind of volatility, but then with some air it developed all sorts of complexity, like a good-spirited peach juice grounded by fennel.

On the other hand, here’s a wine that is pure Campanian grapes, made in Campania. Here you go: a charming literfull of vin-de-soif-a-go-go. Even with skin contact this is a thirst quencher. It will scare the shit out of those who believe in flaws, but it will delight the others who can deal with a heightened volatility. Go through the gate. It’s cheap. Funkadelic with a little bit of citrus pith and lovely funk beneath the fruit. Price: $42 (for a liter)