Old world alert! Jacqueline André sidesteps the trend towards 100% grenache, embraces concrete and thus manages finesse and elegance, even with 14.5% abv. Cellar the powerful 2010s and 2011s—they’ll be beautiful with a little taming. If you can find her 2011 white (Clairette + 3 other grapes), it is savory with a touch of honey.

Kenji is from Vancouver. We met at the Renaissance, where the cupid arrow pierced my palate. This is his first vintage, but chenin of this quality is hard to find, even from the usual suspects. Vines are between 40–90 years old and planted on schist, the wine is aged for 12–18 months in old wood. It’s lean, direct, and laced with citrus skin.