Marie Rocher and I met in 2009 when she told her father, the late Jean Paul Rocher, that he needed to publish The Battle for Wine and Love in French. We’ve been close ever since. So, when she turned winemaker in 2017, I was obviously on board. I tasted that first wine in the cellar of her mentor Pascal Potaire when it was still in barrel. Then came this, her first commercial pet’nat in 2018, which she reared in what used to be the Clos Roche Blanche winery. It was just what I want in a wine—slightly floral, dry, with just a hint of fruit. Gently bubbly, not aggressive and simply soify. Imported by Terrell Wines.

This is a perennial favorite pet’nat from Damien Delecheneau. It is from Touraine vines, around 80 years old and planted by Damien’s great-grandfather. The 2018 is not quite as dry as the previous vintage, but is still plenty crisp and wildly balanced with its signature hint of raspberry. Vin de soif? Big time. Imported by Jenny & François Selections.