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In Cedric Bouchard’s hometown, Celles-sur-Ource, in the Côte des Bar there’s plenty of kitsch.

In February, on the way to Burgundy, Pascaline Lepeltier and I made a pit stop in Champagne. We crammed seven visits into a brief twenty-eight hours. We started north and ended in the south seeing a number of young Turks like Jérome Prevost, Raphaël Béreche, Cedric Bouchard and Olivier Horiot. A theme emerged: a new generation is thriving even though they challenge their families’ history by working more naturally in both the vineyard and the cellar.