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Abe Schoener, the philosophy prof turned winemaker—you would know him from the Scholium Project—segued to a new stage with the Los Angeles River Wine Company in 2019. His first vintage under that label was 2020—the pandemic’s beginning. He aimed to uncover the forgotten vineyards of Los Angeles’ vine glory days and see what he could do with them. Case in point: the José Lopez Vineyard.