Field Notes: July 14, 2023

What a month. What a month. And the latest hits on the natural wine community keep on coming. More on that later. Let me not lead off with the bad news. There’s plenty of time for that.

Let’s start with a press release that made me wonder if all of my work in wine is for naught. The University of Adelaide just was awarded some unseemly amount of money. $3 million to work with “industry partners” such as Drinkwise Australia Limited, Flavourtech Pty Limited, Tarac Technologies Pty Ltd, S. Smith & Son Pty Limited, Treasury Wine Estates Vintners Limited, Danstar Ferment AG, Mauri Yeast Australia Pty Limited and Chr. Hansen A/S) to “create new styles of wine.” The other two projects were for “renewable natural hydrogen and recover critical minerals.” And new styles of wines? What strange companions! Here’s how they rationalize this trio. “By working in tandem with industry, we can make a tangible difference to the future sustainability of our planet and the well-being of its people.” Three million to develop wines with “lower alcohol and calories than traditional styles.” Australia was seen as the biggest proponent of the so-called “Franken-Wines” of the early aughts and it seems like they want to get right back on that horse.