I STAYED AY CLAY’S When my friend and colleague, the photographer Clay McLachlan, suggested I stay at his refurbished home and guest house all the way in Bonvicino, I knew that the location wasn’t really central to my plans. Sure, it was outside the heart of zona Barola, but the offer was so generous, I didn’t hesitate too terribly long. And as it turned out, if I hadn’t stayed at his Villa San Lorenzo, just above the Dolcetto-town of Dogliani I’d have missed great coffee, my first baby fox and a cozy nest to burrow into after a day of tasting.