My friend Elizabeth Minchilli, author of the best selling food apps Eat Rome (Florence and Venice), has lived in Rome for decades. She writes books—a new one comes out this spring—and recently she has expanded into doing private food tours as well. There is no better guide to the best edibles of Italy—including at her own house. When she welcomed me with a rich cabbage and potato soup, she raised the bar for my visit. In the past, I admit that I dragged her around in search of what was natural for wine in the city. But it’s been six years since I’d been on Roman soil, this time it was E who dragged me.