Jean Yves Bizot in Vosne-Romanée

The last time I was in Vosne at this house, down the block from the church, I was visiting a winemaker from the Hautes-Côtes, Claire Naudin. Charmed with her wine, I swore I’d be back to visit with her husband and see how he worked. And so this past August when most of France was on holiday, I waited in the Naudin-Bizot courtyard. Jean Yves Bizot soon emerged from his house, and the vigneron, tall and lanky like an overgrown Harry Potter, lead me to his nearest vineyard. He pulled back a vine and tucked it around a wire, “Can you tell how fed up I am with them this year?”