HANDLINE Travel forty minutes from Glen Ellen to Sebastopol, in the wrong direction for lunch? Little did I know that it was the right decision. Chef Natalie Goble and restaurateur Lowell Sheldon landed on something fabulous when they retrofitted an old Foster’s Freeze. They kept the ice cream contraption, loaded in hardwood for the rustic look, set up to hand-mill tacos and bring coastal California grub. Food is snappily clean. Delicious. Memorable. We brought our own, (you might have to plead) but even if we hadn’t, there would have been something to drink from their very few selections: Swick and Envínate for example.