Burgundy has lost traction with those drinking naturally. Nevertheless, I never stopped visiting and loving it. This is where the notion of terroir flourished; it should not be forsaken. There are indeed fabulous people working there and because it’s so very pricey, they take even more risks by working against the popular notion. Many of their stories move me. One that I had been saving for you: Pierre Fenals. He is in Saint Aubin and his domaine, Maison En Belles Lies, is housed in a flat warehouse at the edge of town, just around the block from Julien Altabar and Dominique Derain.