Subscriber login

First time? Type in new password.
Forgot your password?

Not a subscriber yet? Click here to join!

That Mousy Flavor, Part One

Subscribe Or Log In to continue

The full version of this page is available to TFL subscribers. Subscribe for only $75/year for full access to all content.

Higher Ed

That Mousy Flavor, Part One

Years ago, early into no-sulfur wines, I began to notice an occasional aftertaste. Dard & Ribo’s wines sometimes had it. So did those of Gérald Oustric in the Ardeche. I called it puppy breath.

In tiny doses, I tolerated it. In major amounts, it was untenable. How to describe it? It was as if a stink bomb I couldn’t smell but could certainly taste exploded in my mouth. Yet others actually seemed to like it…and still do. Take the importer who recently showed me a new wine. He poured it, confident I’d love it. “Isn’t it great?” he asked.

Hardly. In fact, natural or not, I found it undrinkable.