My late publisher’s daughter had been complaining. The new natural wine eating spots were all too fancy. It was as if the bar à vin naturel had shaved... read more →
A few years ago friends were taking me out to dinner in Paris. We went to Coinstot Vino and I thought I had ordered the Domaine Prieuré... read more →
Tucked into the Aube, the southern-most bit of Champagne, sits Montgueux. This hill is a chalk outcropping—an island of chardonnay in... read more →
Nicolas Joly started one of the most influential tasting associations in the world—the biodynamic Renaissance des Appellations—but he also... read more →
Anne, Françoise and their brother Joseph Hacquet were siblings from Beaulieu-Sur-Loire, and the reclusive heroes of the modern natural wine movement. Had it not been for a significant... read more →
So, how did a nice Japanese boy like Hirotake... read more →
The young Sean... read more →
“Psst. Lunch at 1:30. L’abri.” I was stunned. “Are you kidding me?” “Legit. It’s Mark’s office. He gets us in.” That’s how I came to eat lunch... read more →
Burgundy has lost traction with those drinking naturally. Nevertheless, I never stopped visiting and loving it. This is where the notion of terroir flourished; it should not be... read more →
Parking the car in Candes-Saint-Martin, Pascaline and I walked to our appointment, carefully, trying not to slide out on the slick, stick-to-your-feet clay called pate aux pieds. Success... read more →