In February, on the way to Burgundy, Pascaline Lepeltier and I made a pit... read more →
Tucked into the Aube, the southern-most bit of Champagne, sits Montgueux. This hill is a chalk outcropping—an island of chardonnay in... read more →
The first time I went to Burgundy I was so damned scared. It was in January 2006 and I didn’t know anything about wine... read more →
Anne, Françoise and their brother Joseph Hacquet were siblings from Beaulieu-Sur-Loire, and the reclusive heroes of the modern natural wine movement. Had it not been for a significant... read more →
LE CLOWN BAR Right after the attacks, I was in a somber and nearly empty Paris. As it happened, so were a few friends. With a sense... read more →
Cédric, with his hipster heartthrob good looks (sorry girls, he’s married) had just moved into his new winery and cellar in Landreville when Pascaline and I stopped in... read more →
My late publisher’s daughter had been complaining. The new natural wine eating spots were all too fancy. It was as if the bar à vin naturel had shaved... read more →
Within a few minutes of driving into the Vouette & Sorbée winery, Bertrand Gautherot greeted me with, “You’ll have to stay for lunch. I talk a... read more →
Parking the car in Candes-Saint-Martin, Pascaline and I walked to our appointment, carefully, trying not to slide out on the slick, stick-to-your-feet clay called pate aux pieds. Success... read more →
Burgundy has lost traction with those drinking naturally. Nevertheless, I never stopped visiting and loving it. This is where the notion of terroir flourished; it should not be... read more →