Old world alert! Jacqueline André sidesteps the trend towards 100% grenache, embraces concrete and thus manages finesse and elegance, even with 14.5% abv. Cellar the powerful 2010s and 2011s—they’ll be... read more →
Another wine I’ve ignored for no good reason. The whites and reds are both solid and exciting, so get your hands on whatever you can. The Arcane? It’s chenin planted... read more →
Why don’t the Coulaine wines get better representation on the shelves? The 2011 vintage was generous to Etienne and Pascale and this is a gorgeous expression of grapes grown in... read more →
My note? “This one!!” Almond, wool and electricity. From Philippe’s 40–90 year old vines, his oldest. This 2009 had more sulfur than usual, and a little less acid (it was... read more →
From everyone’s favorite mustachioed vigneron comes Les Houx—the new name for Hermines d’Or. Tasted under the fluorescent lights of the Salon (oh, the glamour), this seemed Chablis-like. Salt on a... read more →
From Alain Coudert’s old vines, planted in 1930 or older, then aged up in wood. Right now, backward with plenty of structure and power. This needs some time to knit... read more →
Tasted this in the Loire, and found it so yummy and very velvety with that edge and ink. I haven’t had a wine from J-P in a long time that... read more →
The 2011s from our friend Steve over in California are lovely. Loved them all, from the melon-like Vermentino ($20) to the Primrose-scented Bone Jolly Rosé ($18), to the subtle and... read more →
In this issue I’ve a few traditional wines that just are beauties even if they aren’t natural at heart. This is one. It is compellingly gorgeous. If you can find... read more →
Another great find from the Indie Wineries people. This smacked of old world rusticity in the best possible authentic way. The story here is that the grapes went to Giacosa... read more →