The Rhône dinner at Vinegar Hill House was delicious (thank you Jean Adamson) and fantastic. At least we thought so. Did you? It’s always a good sign when you have to kick people out for the evening. (Not my idea but legalities prevailed.)
The room glowed at the Rhône dinner at Vinegar Hill House.
The winner of a casual survey for best bottle of the night was the 2017 Dard & Ribo St. Jo. Blanc. Roussanne. If you have turned your nose up on the whites from the North, specifically from D&R, reconsider that please. These are stars.
VHH has urged us to make these dinners a regular feature, so Fitch and I are working on something super fun for, dare I say, September.
A couple of PSAs for this week.
Lower East Side Wine Shop Alert!
For skin contact wine lovers, Doreen Winkler has opened up her tiny but sweet Orange Glou.
As the name implies, the focus is exclusively on orange wines and it’s within a quick jaunt of Skin Contact and Ten Bells. 264 Broome Street (at Allen St.) on the Lower East Side. Hours are Wednesday to Sunday 1 pm to 9 pm. Real Wine LitIf you’re too young to remember what wine writing was like before tasting notes and scores took over — or if you are old enough to remember and long for the “good old days,” then head to Classic Editions from The Academie du Vin. The result of a lunch (no doubt boozy) between Hugh Johnson and the late Stephen Spurrier, the Academie is worth a new look. They are reviving some fantastic old titles and releasing new ones. One of the earliest releases is one of my favorites to gift, In the Vine Country by Somerville and Ross. I’m looking forward to getting Stay Me With Flagons (Maurice Healy) and A Contemplation of Wine (H. Warner Allen). They’ve offered my readers a bit of a discount. Use the promo code VINE3 to get $3 off per title (valid only on the Classics paperback).*
This week I’m hitting a pause on the Vermont series. While I polish and shine the profile on David Keck, I am bringing you an essay from former Brunette Wine Bar owner Tracy Kennard.
I first met the remarkable woman…gosh, I can’t remember when, but years back at a New York City wine tasting. There was something about her gentleness. The smile, the lipstick, always melon or red, the smock dresses. She owned that look and it was magnetic.
Just before the 2017 Georgian wine book party at Brunette with Jamie and Tracy.
Two years ago, shortly after I had my last book event at her very beloved Kingston wine bar, Tracy was diagnosed with a rare and aggressive cancer. I have been lucky enough to be on her mailing list where she gives not so regular updates. Every time one lands in my in-box I feel a spectrum of feelings but ironically, one of them is delight. Her voice is so… Tracy. And that is the most essential element to being a writer. The voice and then something to say with it. So I commissioned a piece about eating and drinking through the effects of her chemo and radiation. I knew she would bring it to you with artistic grace. I hope you agree that it belongs in the newsletter and that it is a launchpad for her as well. So you editors out there, please read and listen up.
Until next time,
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Cellier de la Baraterie 2015 Blanc de Tradition
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La Clarine Farm 2019 Mourvèdre “Cedarville”
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Hiyu Farm Floréal Cider
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I'm hunting the Leon Trotskys, the Philip Roths, the Chaucers and the Edith Whartons of the wine world. I want them natural and most of all, I want them to speak the truth even if we argue. With this messiah thing going on, I'm trying to swell the ranks of those who crave the differences in each vintage, celebrate nuance and desire wines that make them think, laugh, and feel. Welcome.