Olivier Lejeune studied in Auckland, New Zealand, where he learned his biodynamics at Felton Road. When he returned to the Loire, he went to the right place. He became one... read more →
I’m beginning to think that the appley chenin is one of the hardest grapes to work with. It reacts poorly to overworking and easily loses its acid. But when it’s... read more →
Bruno Ciofi learned his biodynamics under the tutelage of Pierre Frick. He then took his knowledge to the Jura. Now he’s finally settled into the Loire working in a partnership... read more →
Robert Parker Jr. once wrote that grolleau should be yanked out of the Loire, which should make him eligible for high treason. Thank goodness he was ignored. Here’s a stinky... read more →
Whole bunches were macerated for one month in tank and then bottled early, in the spring. This wine improved over five days, an impressive feat. Beneath the candied orange, there’s... read more →
Serious and brooding. Of course the maker, Olivier Cousin—who embodies joie de vivre—is none of these things, which is kind of fun. Love this wine, it’s got so much earthiness,... read more →
Having worked with Domaine Mélaric and Domaine des Roches Neuves, Maïté Perrocheau & Warren Truchon started up in Anjou. They acquired land from Joël Ménard of the Domaine des Sablonettes... read more →
Solidarity! Drink Olivier Cousin this month. If you’ve not heard, the vigneron has been hauled to court for defying the AOC. You see, he makes wine outside of the appellation,... read more →
This is Bruno’s young vine grolleau. Given a short maceration and raised for 6 months in vat, this is fresh and quite ripe at 13%. Yup, there’s a little skunk... read more →
I had this newcomer at the Renaissance in Angers and I thought, “Not bad!” This, their first vintage, comes from the schist soils of Anjou Noir (tune in next month... read more →